Fence Building Basics

What should a fence do on my property?

Start with the purpose. A fence can keep livestock in, keep predators or deer out, mark a boundary, protect a garden or simply guide traffic. Each purpose calls for a different height, spacing and strength. A fence that holds a calm horse will not necessarily hold goats, and a fence that stops goats will not stop a determined dog.

Write down which animals or problems you are dealing with and what they do when they test a fence. Goats climb and lean, cattle push, sheep hunt for gaps, and poultry need a barrier at the bottom as well as the top. Your county extension office and neighbors who keep the same animals can tell you what actually holds in your area.

Which type of fence is right for me?

The main families are woven wire, high-tensile wire, electric, board, pipe or cable, and temporary netting or polywire. They differ in cost categories: materials, posts, hardware, tools and your own labor. Board and pipe fences tend to cost the most to build, while electric and temporary systems cost less up front but need regular checking.

Think about maintenance as well. Wood rots at the ground line, wire sags and rusts, and electric fences need a working charger and a clear line free of weeds. Ask yourself how much time you will really spend on upkeep, and choose a system you will keep up.

• Permanent perimeter: woven wire or high-tensile with solid corners
• Rotational grazing: electric, often movable
• Horses: visible, safe materials with no loops or sharp edges
• Garden protection: tall or buried barrier to match the pest

What do I check before I dig?

Rules are local. Contact your town or county zoning or planning office to ask whether fence height, setbacks from the road or property line, or permits apply. If you share a boundary, ask your county recorder or a licensed surveyor how to confirm where the line really is, and talk with the neighbor before building. Some areas have fence-sharing or livestock fencing rules that differ by state, so ask the local office what applies to you.

Before any post goes in the ground, call your local underground utility locating service so buried lines are marked. In the United States this is usually reached by a national three-digit number, and the service is free to the caller. Never dig until the marks are in place.

How do I lay out a straight, strong fence line?

Walk the route first and note slopes, wet spots, trees, rock and gates. Mark the corners and gate positions, then run string between the end points to see the line. Fewer corners mean less work and fewer weak points, and a gentle curve is often easier than many tiny angles.

Plan where gates will go while you lay out the line. Place them where animals and equipment naturally move, and leave enough width for the machines you own. A gate added later is harder than one planned at the start.

Why are corners and braces the most important part?

Tension wire pulls hard on end and corner posts. A line post can be modest, but the end assembly must resist a steady pull for years. A common approach uses larger posts set deep with a horizontal brace and a diagonal tie, but the exact design depends on the fence type and soil. Follow a tested design from an extension or NRCS publication for your wire system.

Set posts in firm soil, deep enough for frost where your ground freezes, and tamp the backfill as you go. Posts in soft or wet ground may need more depth or a different footing. If a corner leans after a season, it was under-built, and everything attached to it will sag.

How do I keep the work safe and manageable?

Wear eye protection and gloves, because stretched wire can whip back when cut or released. Release tension slowly and keep your face out of line. Use a post driver or auger the way the manual says, and keep helpers clear of the swing and the rotating parts.

Break the job into stages: layout, corners, line posts, wire, then gates and finishing. Work in good weather and leave the electric charger for last, with grounding done according to its instructions. Test the fence before animals depend on it, and walk the line weekly at first.

What mistakes show up most often?

The usual ones are skipping the neighbor conversation, underbuilding corners, ignoring drainage, and buying wire before deciding on the animals. Another is forgetting that a fence is a system: if one wire, one clip or one gate fails, the whole thing is open.

Treat the first season as a trial. Note where animals test it, repair quickly and adjust. A fence improved a little each year often ends up better than one built hurriedly in a single weekend.

Last reviewed: November 12, 2026. Written by the Homestead & Small Farm Editorial Team. See our editorial policy.