Deer and Rabbit Fencing

How do deer and rabbits get into a garden?

Deer can clear a surprisingly tall barrier from a standing start, but they dislike jumping where they cannot see a safe landing. They also push under loose bottoms and through weak spots. Hunger changes their behavior, so a fence that works in summer may fail in a hard winter or after a dry spell when food is scarce.

Rabbits do not jump high, but they fit through small openings and dig along the base of a fence. A rabbit fence is judged by its mesh size and by whether the bottom is secured. Before you buy anything, walk the garden at dawn or dusk and look for tracks, droppings, browse lines and trails to learn who is visiting and where they enter.

What kinds of fence keep deer out?

Extension publications describe several approaches. A tall solid or woven fence is the most dependable, because deer will not try what they cannot see through or clear. Two shorter fences set a few feet apart can also confuse a deer's judgment of depth. Slanted fences and electric fences are other options, and each has its own cost, upkeep and safety needs.

Ask your county extension office which height and style work for the deer pressure in your area. Pressure varies a lot from one county to the next, and local experience beats a general rule.

• Tall woven wire or mesh: dependable but costly and work to install.
• Double fence: two lower fences set apart so deer cannot judge a jump.
• Electric: needs a charger, grounding, signs and regular checking.
• Plastic mesh netting: lighter, but vulnerable to damage and wind.

What does a rabbit fence need?

Choose small mesh at the bottom, since young rabbits fit through openings larger than most people expect. Ask your extension office for the maximum opening that holds for your region, and check the wire gauge so it does not sag or tear. The bottom edge should be buried or bent outward along the ground, or pinned with stakes or garden staples, so rabbits cannot lift or dig under it.

Rabbits will also use gaps at gates, corners and where fence meets building or slope. Close each one, since a single hole defeats the whole fence.

How do you build one fence for both animals?

A combined fence uses a tall deer-proof upper section and a fine-mesh lower section, or a lower rabbit fence inside a taller deer fence. Choose strong posts set deep and braced at corners and gate openings, since tension in wire fencing pulls on those points constantly. Keep wire tight so animals cannot push or tangle in it.

Plan gates early. A gate that is too narrow for a cart or wheelbarrow tends to be left open. Make gates the same height as the fence, hang them to close tightly, and fit latches animals cannot lift.

What about safety, rules and neighbors?

Electric fences should use equipment designed for the purpose and installed as the maker directs, with warning signs where people may pass. Do not improvise with household wiring. Have a licensed electrician help if you are connecting to building power.

Rules differ by town and county. Fence height limits, setbacks, materials and permits are local, so ask your local zoning or building office what applies before you build, especially near a road or property line. Wildlife rules also vary by state, and some states restrict how you may deal with deer. Check with your state wildlife agency and do not trap or harm animals without confirming the rules.

Can repellents and scare devices replace a fence?

Repellent sprays, scents, noisemakers and decoys may reduce browsing for a short time, but animals tend to get used to them, and results vary with hunger and rain. They can be a temporary help for a single tree or a new planting while a fence is going up. If you use any commercial product, the label is the law, and check that it is rated for use on food crops.

Plant choice also helps. Some plants are browsed less than others, but no plant is truly deer-proof when animals are hungry, so treat plant lists as a tendency, not a guarantee.

How do you maintain a garden fence?

Walk the fence line regularly and after storms. Look for sagging wire, gaps at the ground, broken stakes, leaning posts and fallen branches that make a bridge. Keep vegetation trimmed along the base, since weeds can hide holes and, on an electric fence, short out the wire.

Keep a simple record of where animals have tested the fence. Repeated pressure points are the places to reinforce first.

Last reviewed: November 12, 2026. Written by the Homestead & Small Farm Editorial Team. See our editorial policy.